Che cosa è una perla scaramazza o barocca?

Devi acquistare un gioiello e vuoi scoprire cosa è una perla scaramazza o barocca? Leggi l'articolo per saperne di più, per scoprire le differenze con le perle sferiche ed alcune curiosità.

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Perla scaramazza, o perla barocca, è una perla naturale o coltivata di forma non perfettamente sferica, non ascrivibile tra le classiche note forme delle perle (sferica, semisferica, a bottone, a goccia o ovale). La perla scaramazza può esser quindi definita una perla con forma a fantasia.

Perla scaramazza, si o no?

Nel campo della gioielleria capita spesso di sentire potenziali acquirenti porre la domanda: Una perla scaramazza è meno pregiata rispetto ad una perla sferica? La risposta da dare in questi casi non è facile, essendo ogni perla differente da un’altra. Tale difficoltà deriva soprattutto dal fatto che il discorso verte, sostanzialmente, sull’analisi ed il raffronto di due gemme completamente diverse tra loro. Comunque… Come per le perle di forma sferica esistono perle più o meno belle, anche tra le scaramazze vi sono perle con più o meno valore.

La valorizzazione di una perla scaramazza avviene come per le “sorelle” rotonde: colorazione, uniformità della perlagione, oriente (che impropriamente possiamo definire la “vividezza della superficie”), peso-dimensione. Esistono perle scaramazze con qualità talmente alte da superare perle sferiche della stessa misura, e viceversa perle sferiche piccole talmente belle da esser più pregiate di grandi barocche. Riassumendo il discorso: è sbagliato metterle a confronto ed è impossibile dare una risposta corretta alla domanda, poichè per ognuna delle due tipologie esistono perle “brutte” e perle “belle” (con relativo valore più o meno grande).

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e perla barocca by Coscia

Il fascino della perla scaramazza

La forma irregolare e indefinita di queste gemme le rende molto apprezzate nelle modellazioni di gioielli artistici fantasiosi dal design estroso e creativo. Il fascino è proprio la loro unicità: la bellezza delle perle scaramazze è il loro carattere irripetibile. Possiamo asserire che non esistano in natura e al mondo due perle scaramazze esattamente uguali come forma, dimensione, colore ed oriente.

Ogni gioiello creato con una perla barocca diventa quindi una creazione esclusiva originale che ne rispecchia e ne esalta le virtù: non a caso per la creazione di un gioiello con perla barocca si parte, in primis, dalla scelta della perla, e su quella si sviluppa poi il disegno, si modellano l’oro o l’argento, e si abbinano gemme ed eventualmente smalti.

Gioielli antichi con perle barocche

Una perla con carattere

Come abbiamo appena dimostrato, le perle scaramazze non sono perle di seconda scelta ma, anzi, dimostrano tutta la loro bellezza attraverso l’unicità, dove ogni perla assume una forma peculiare.

In passato, come già trattato nell’articolo “Perla, la gemma sacra dedicata ad Afrodite“, le perle barocche assunsero importanza proprio grazie al loro carattere “imperfetto”: dato il loro costo minore esse venivano preferite dai gioiellieri dell’epoca (dal XV fino al XVII secolo) alle sorelle rotonde poichè davano la possibilità di creare gioielli con perle adatti a tutti i budget.

La questione economica che portò i gioiellieri a proporle maggiormente le fece diventare ancora più di moda, e questo facilitò la loro diffusione in tutto il mondo fino al XIX secolo, momento in cui l’uso della perla barocca subì una crisi, sostituita quasi totalmente dalle perle coltivate sferiche, scelte per la creazione di collane di perle uniformi.

Ciondolo raffigurante Ercole, manifattura fiamminga, XVI secolo

I gioielli “delle meraviglie”

Ciò nonostante merita un’approfondimento la storia della perla scaramazza diffusa intorno al XV secolo: la massificazione del prodotto dovuta ad un prezzo relativamente basso portò la perla a divenire in poco tempo l’ornamento femminile per eccellenza, seconda solo al diamante. Questo però riguardò le perle scaramazze di dimensioni piccole e normali.

Le perle “incredibili”, ossia quelle grandi, con colorazioni particolari, superfici uniformi e oriente intenso avevano prezzi tremendamente alti… L’immediata conseguenza? I capolavori più significativi venivano acquistati dai nobili delle più grandi famiglie ed inseriti nelle camere delle meraviglie (si pensi per esempio a Francesco I de’ Medici, Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici o Rodolfo II di Asburgo, per citarne alcuni).

Questo fenomeno era prerogativa esclusiva le perle scaramazze, poichè a differenza di quelle tonde, queste davano la possibilità ai gioiellieri di cimentarsi nella creazione di gioielli straordinari e bizzarri grazie alle forme ed ai colori della madreperla (materiale di cui è composta la perla) che fungevano da base al corpo degli stessi.

Spilla in oro con busto di perla scaramazza
Spilla in oro con busto di perla scaramazza e gemme

Purtroppo la quantità di gioielli antichi con perle scaramazze pervenuti ai giorni nostri è esiguo: quelli passati per le mani di privati di normali famiglie sono andati perduti nel tempo (a causa del materiale “degradabile” della perla, meno resistente dei minerali), e solo quelli all’interno delle più famose collezioni sono giunti sino a noi, a testimoniare l’equilibrio che vi fu tra moda e gioiello, tra ornamento della persona e valori etici ed estetici di bellezza ed eleganza nella vita e nei costumi.

Le perle scaramazze nella gioielleria moderna

Al giorno d’oggi le perle scaramazze trovano un ruolo centrale sia nella gioielleria classica in oro, sia nella gioielleria bijoux in argento. La distinzione della destinazione gioiello o bijoux è strettamente legata alla qualità della perla: perle pregiate dei Mari del Sud o Thaiti vengono preferite per la gioielleria, mentre quelle più piccole o Fresh Water, solitamente, per i gioielli alla moda (se vuoi conoscere tutte le differenze tra le varie tipologie di perle ti consigliamo la nostra Guida alle Perle giapponesi, cinesi e South Sea).

Gioielleria moderna in oro con perle scaramazze
Coppia di anelli in oro bianco e rosa con diamanti e perle scaramazze del brand Coscia

Crea un gioiello con perla barocca

Leggendo l’articolo ti è venuta voglia di creare un tuo gioiello con perla barocca? Hai un disegno e vuoi sottoporlo ad un esperto per ricevere un preventivo gratuito? Puoi farlo subito: contatta gli esperti della gioielleria Cicala e crea subito un tuo capolavoro esclusivo.

© Foto: Wikipedia, Coscia.

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  56. IELLIOS是由歐盟資助倫敦大學細胞重建研究所研究. 採用諾貝爾生理醫學獎科技 , 透過”納米能量電流” 以最親膚與迅速導入的方式 , 利用電腦化系統去令皮膚再生 , 令皮膚組織在無創傷的情況下自然更新及收緊 . 這治療是無創無痛的 . 完成治療後亦沒有傷口 . 我們是香港第一引入IELLIOS的機構 , 醫生會根據客人不同情況去為你設計不同的組合 .在外國IELLIOS受到很多荷里活明星, 歌手以至政客的追棒 , Madonna的facialist kate somer -field就常用IELLIOS為她護理肌膚 , 令52歲的她肌膚輪廓均保持於30歲的狀態. IELLIOS的訊號技術,採用心臟起博起原理,活躍無法正常運作的心臟細胞。訊號技術可活化及修復愛損皮膚,透過傳送訊號,激活靜止的細胞。IELLIOS的訊號技術給予細胞指令,引發細胞再次生長,令肌膚重回年輕。

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