Prova al polso del Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

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Presentiamo oggi l’ultimo e nuovo modello TUDOR presentato al Baselworld 2016, il salone internazionale dell’orologeria: il TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY DARK. Il nuovo modello monta il calibro di manifattura MT5602 certificato COSC, un capolavoro Swiss Made che rende omaggio ad una Maison che ha segnato la storia dell’orologeria.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

tudor-heritage-black-bay-black-mt5602Il Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark riprende le linee ed i riferimenti dei diver che hanno fatto la storia della Maison svizzera, come il quadrante ed il vetro zaffiro bombato. La corona di carica è particolarmente sporgente richiamando quella della famosa referenza 7924 introdotta nel 1958 e soprannominata appunto “Big Crown”.

Una delle sue particolarità è la rosa TUDOR incisa sulla superficie; le sfere inoltre, di forma spigolosa e conosciute come “snowflake”, sono riprese dagli orologi che il marchio fornì alla Marina francese negli anni ’70.

Anche l’indicazione della profondità, garantita e incisa a caratteri rossi sul quadrante, e il triangolo rosso sulla lunetta girevole, sono da includere tra i principali elementi estetici di ispirazione storica.

Caratteristiche distintive

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La caratteristica distintiva del Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark è la cassa realizzata in acciaio con un diametro (esclusa corona) di 41 mm.

Rifinita con rivestimento nero, trattato PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) rende ancor più accattivante e sorprendente l’estetica di questo splendido segnatempo. Derivato direttamente dalla tecnologia dei film sottili sviluppata originariamente dalla NASA per i suoi programmi spaziali, il trattamento PVD, o deposizione fisica da vapore, consente di legare ai metalli qualsiasi materiale inorganico.

Il modello Heritage Black Bay Dark presenta una finitura opaca nera ed interamente satinata che ricorda quella delle apparecchiature militari. A completare il corredo, TUDOR monta una lunetta girevole unidirezionale realizzata in acciaio nero trattato PVD ed un inserto in alluminio anodizzato in colore nero.

Bracciale o cinturino

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Il TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Dark viene proposto sia con un bracciale nero in acciaio trattato PVD, sia con un cinturino in pelle invecchiata con chiusura deployante in acciaio trattato PVD. Inoltre, l’Heritage Black Bay Dark è dotato di un cinturino addizionale in tessuto grigio incluso nella confezione; questo cinturino è realizzato in tessuto jacquard secondo il metodo tradizionale di un’azienda centenaria a conduzione familiare della regione francese di St-Etienne.

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Il cuore dell’orologio

Introduciamo ora il cuore pulsante di questo splendido segnatempo TUDOR, poichè merità sicuramente un elogio. Nel 2015 Tudor ha introdotto il primo movimento meccanico sviluppato, prodotto e assemblato internamente dal Marchio.

Si tratta di un calibro ad alte prestazioni, eccezionalmente preciso, robusto e che garantisce un’autonomia di 70 ore. Con una frequenza di 28.800 alternanze/ora, o 4Hz, il movimento è dotato di un organo regolatore a inerzia variabile con spirale del bilanciere in silicio, tenuto in posizione da un ponte passante che ne assicura la robustezza. Il movimento è inoltre certificato dal C.O.S.C. (Controllo Ufficiale Svizzero dei Cronometri).

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Il Calibro di manifattura MT5602, dove “MT” indica la “Manifattura TUDOR” è una variante del movimento prodotto da TUDOR, sviluppata appositamente per i modelli Heritage Black Bay e Heritage Black Bay Dark.

Il quadrante presenta le indicazioni delle ore, dei minuti e dei secondi, una scelta minimale quanto efficace che premia una facilità di lettura e dona ancor più eleganza a segnatempo.

Considerazioni sul modello

L’orologio si presenta di una finezza spiccata nonostante il carattere “deciso ed aggressivo” dovuto al colore nero. Anche coloro che non amano questo colore, ma preferiscono orologi con la classica cassa in acciaio, il Black Bay Dark risulta una scelta possibile dato il richiamo al “classico ” dovuto ai vari elementi sopra citati.

Al tatto risulta incredibilmente solido, complice la struttura realizzata in acciaio, e non in titanio come la moda suggerisce negli ultimi tempi. La dimensione corretta della cassa (che ripetiamo, ha un diametro di 41mm) ne fa un compagno facile da indossare per ogni grandezza di polso. Forse il peso è l’unica variabile da tenere in considerazione se si è donna: 181g lo rendono poco adatto ad un pubblico femminile.

Consigliatissimo invece a tutti gli amanti del colore nero e della sportività: il dark non stufa mai e si sposa perfettamente su ogni look, ed il richiamo del quadrante e della cassa ai vari diver ne fa un perfetto accessorio per gli tutti sportivi.

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Si ringrazia la gioielleria Luigi Codevilla di Genova per il segnatempo.

©Foto: Tudor, Blog dei Preziosi.

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